Youtube Instagram Pinterest Facebook Tiktok

Sublimation Shirts: The “No-Fade” Guide to Fabrics & Heat Pressing

peeling the plastic of the infusible ink off of the cricut infusible ink shirt with the title "sublimation shirts guide"
Jump to Instructions

When I first started making sublimation shirts, I thought the hard part was over once I had a design. I quickly learned that the real challenge is the science of the transfer itself. From shirts that looked faded because of the “Polyester Lie” to the dreaded “pizza wheel” marks and ghosted images, I’ve hit every roadblock in the book.

Sublimation is unique because the print on the paper looks dull by design – it only becomes vibrant once it’s gassed into the fibers. But if your fabric blend is wrong, your pressure is uneven, or there’s hidden moisture in your workspace, your “perfect” design will never make it to the shirt. In this guide, I’m breaking down the 70% rule, the “pre-press” secret, and how to troubleshoot the most common issues so you can stop wasting expensive blanks and start getting pro-level results.

Table of Contents

Note: Some links in this post may contain affiliate links, which means at no cost to you, I may earn a commission.

Get the latest DIY tutorials, reviews, and crafting updates

You'll never be spammed and can unsubscribe at any time

The 70% Rule: Why Your Shirt Looks Dull

If your finished shirt looks like a faded vintage tee, the culprit is usually the fabric tag. Think of it this way: the ink only has a “chemical bond” with polyester. If you use an 80% polyester shirt, only 80% of the shirt will absorb the color so it will only have 80% of the vibrancy.

My Rule: I never recommend going lower than 70% polyester. Even at 70%, your colors will be noticeably less vibrant than a 100% poly shirt. Also, remember that your base color matters, sublimation ink is transparent, so a colored shirt acts like a “filter” that will always dull your final design. Stick to bright white for the best “pop.”

These are some great options of 100% polyester shirts:

There are ways to use sublimation on cotton shirts, non-polyester shirts, and colored shirts, but that requires either DTF or sublimation paper specifically for cotton and uses a different process.

Hanes Men's Short Sleeve Cool DRI T-Shirt UPF 50-Plus, White, X-Large (Pack of 2)
Hanes Men's Short Sleeve Cool DRI T-Shirt UPF 50-Plus, White, X-Large (Pack of 2)
Hanes Women's Cooldri Short Sleeve Performance V-Neck T-Shirt (1 Pack), White, Large
Hanes Women's Cooldri Short Sleeve Performance V-Neck T-Shirt (1 Pack), White, Large
Cricut Women's T-Shirt Blank, V-Neck, S
Cricut Women's T-Shirt Blank, V-Neck, S
Jump to Instructions

What You Cannot Sublimate: The Limitations

Sublimation is a powerful tool, but it’s not a “cure-all” for every craft project. There are three main “deal-breakers” you need to know before you start:

  1. No 100% Cotton: If you try to sublimate on a 100% cotton shirt, the design might look okay for five minutes, but it will almost completely disappear in the first wash. The ink needs plastic (polyester) to live.

  2. No Dark Colors: Because sublimation ink is transparent, it cannot “cover up” the color of the shirt. If you try to put a design on a black or navy blue shirt, it will be invisible. You need a bright white or very light pastel base for the colors to show up. (I use a light grey in this example as I’m using black sublimation sheets)

  3. No Low-Resolution Images: This is a “garbage in, garbage out” process. If you find a tiny, blurry image on the web and try to stretch it onto a shirt, your printer will reveal every single pixel. Always use high-quality, 300 DPI images for a professional look.

finished sublimation t shirt with the borgin and burkes logo

Sublimation Sheets vs. Printed Transfers

There are two main ways to get a design onto a shirt and choosing the right one depends on your budget and how much “tech” you want to handle.

Sublimation Sheets (Beginner Friendly)

These are pre-inked sheets that you can cut using a craft machine such as a Cricut (I use an xTool in this example) or even a pair of scissors.

  • The Pros: You don’t need a special printer or ink. They are extremely vibrant and very hard to “mess up.”

  • The Cons: You are limited to the colors and patterns of the sheets you buy. You cannot do photographs or complex gradients with this method.

Printed Transfers (The “Pro” Method)

This involves using a dedicated sublimation printer and sublimation ink to print your own custom designs onto special paper.

  • The Pros: You can print anything, including full-color photos and intricate logos. This is where you will see “pizza wheel” marks if your settings are not right, but it offers the most creative freedom.

  • The Cons: It requires a bigger upfront investment in hardware and a steeper learning curve for print settings and “mirroring” your images.

That being said, I’ve put together this guide for how to create your own sublimation printer at the lowest cost – and it’s precisely how I do my own sublimation printing.

Jump to Instructions

Don’t forget to pin it so you can easily come back to it later!

peeling the plastic of the infusible ink off of the cricut infusible ink shirt with the title "sublimation shirts guide"

The Expert Prep List: Non-Negotiable Steps

Before you even think about touching your heat press, there are three steps you’ve gotta take. If you skip these, you’re basically inviting splotchy ink and random spots to the party.

  • The Mandatory Lint Roll: Even if the shirt looks like it just came out of the package, it’s covered in tiny, invisible fibers. Under the high heat of a press, those fibers react and turn into permanent colored specks. Roll your shirt at least three times – you’ll be surprised what the roller picks up!

  • The “Pre-Press” Moisture Burp: Fabric is a sponge for humidity. If you press your design onto a “wet” shirt, that steam will block the ink from bonding properly. Press your shirt with the heat press for 5-10 seconds to “burp” that moisture out. You might even see a little steam rise, and that’s exactly what you want.

  • The Butcher Paper Buffer: Don’t forget to slide a piece of parchment paper or a teflon sheet inside the shirt before you press the design. This prevents the ink from “bleeding” through the front and ruining the back of your garment. It’s a cheap way to avoid a total disaster.

Materials to Make Sublimation Shirts

Cricut Women's Fitted T-Shirt Blank, V-Neck, L
Cricut Women's Fitted T-Shirt Blank, V-Neck, L
Cricut Infusible Ink Sheets - Sublimation Transfer Paper, (2) 12" x 12" Transfer Sheets & (2) Butcher Paper, Create Designs Blanks, Compatible Maker & Explore, Black
Cricut Infusible Ink Sheets - Sublimation Transfer Paper, (2) 12" x 12" Transfer Sheets & (2) Butcher Paper, Create Designs Blanks, Compatible Maker & Explore, Black
Craft Vinyl Weeding Tools Set, Precision Craft Vinyl Tools Kit, 6pcs Weeding Kits
Craft Vinyl Weeding Tools Set, Precision Craft Vinyl Tools Kit, 6pcs Weeding Kits
EQUTY BAYMERS 2 Rolls 20mm X 33m 108ft Heat Tape,Adhesive Heat Resistant/Transfer Tape, Heat Vinyl Thermal Sublimation Press Tape,No Residue,Electronics,Soldering,Protecting Circuit Board
EQUTY BAYMERS 2 Rolls 20mm X 33m 108ft Heat Tape,Adhesive Heat Resistant/Transfer Tape, Heat Vinyl Thermal Sublimation Press Tape,No Residue,Electronics,Soldering,Protecting Circuit Board
VEVOR Heat Press Machine 8 in 1 Combo Heat Press 15x15 Inch Heat Transfer Machine 360-Degree Swing Away Digital Tshirt Press Multifunction Heat Transfer Sublimation for T Shirts Mugs Hats Plates Caps
VEVOR Heat Press Machine 8 in 1 Combo Heat Press 15x15 Inch Heat Transfer Machine 360-Degree Swing Away Digital Tshirt Press Multifunction Heat Transfer Sublimation for T Shirts Mugs Hats Plates Caps
xTool M1 Ultra Laser Engraving Machine, Desktop 4-in-1 Craft Machine with 20W Laser Engraver, Inkjet Printing, Blade Cutting, Pen Drawing, Support Rotary Engraving on Tumblers - Premium Bundle
xTool M1 Ultra Laser Engraving Machine, Desktop 4-in-1 Craft Machine with 20W Laser Engraver, Inkjet Printing, Blade Cutting, Pen Drawing, Support Rotary Engraving on Tumblers - Premium Bundle
Cricut Maker 4 - Smart Cutting Machine (Seashell) | Digital Content Bundle - Includes 30 Images in Design Space App
Cricut Maker 4 - Smart Cutting Machine (Seashell) | Digital Content Bundle - Includes 30 Images in Design Space App
Reynolds Kitchens Stay Flat Parchment Paper Roll, Non Curling Baking Parchment Paper for Baking and Cooking, Oven Safe up to 425 Degrees, 36 Feet x 15 Inches, 45 Total Sq. Ft.
Reynolds Kitchens Stay Flat Parchment Paper Roll, Non Curling Baking Parchment Paper for Baking and Cooking, Oven Safe up to 425 Degrees, 36 Feet x 15 Inches, 45 Total Sq. Ft.
Scotch-Brite Everyday Clean Lint Roller, 95 Sheets, Multi-Purpose Pet Hair, Fuzz, and Lint Remover for Clothes, Furniture, Vehicle Upholstery, and More
Scotch-Brite Everyday Clean Lint Roller, 95 Sheets, Multi-Purpose Pet Hair, Fuzz, and Lint Remover for Clothes, Furniture, Vehicle Upholstery, and More

You May Also Like...

Instructions to Make Sublimation Shirts

Create and Cut the Design

You can cut out your design by hand with scissors or a blade, but I prefer to use a cutting machine. If you’re a crafter and don’t yet have one, I highly recommend it, especially if you plan to make a lot of sublimation items. I had just received the Xtool so wanted to test it out for this project.

Simply upload your design to the software (this is the Borgin and Burkes design I used) and adjust it to the size you want. I was using a large women’s shirt so I made it 8 inches wide.

Then be sure to mirror the image! Otherwise your design will end up backwards. If you’re using sublimation sheets, you’ll mirror the design in your cutting software (like the xTool’s software or in Cricut Design Space). If you’re using printed transfers, you’ve gotta make sure to select “Mirror Image” in your printer settings before you hit print. It’s the #1 mistake beginners make, so double-check it!

On the Xtool I selected the blade cut and then PU Heat Transfer Vinyl setting and it worked perfectly. On a Cricut, use the “custom settings” and select Infusible Ink.

xtool creative space interface with borgin and burkes image

Next, load your infusible ink onto the cutting mat. Make sure it’s face up! And press start on the machine.

open xtool with the light grip mat and black infusible ink on top

After it’s done cutting, use a weeding tool (such as these) to remove the negative space. I also like to cut around the design so you’re not working with as much material.

Tip: Leave at least half an inch around your design of blank space to help stick it to your shirt.

cut and weeded black infusible ink with the borgin and burkes logo

Get the latest DIY tutorials, reviews, and crafting updates

You'll never be spammed and can unsubscribe at any time

Prepare the Sublimation Shirt

Preheat your heat press and adjust the pressure based on the shirt you’re using and the infusible ink transfer sheet. My settings said to use 385 degrees F for 40 seconds and medium pressure so I adjusted my heat press accordingly (this is the one I used).

For full details on how to use a heat press, here’s my full guide to the Vevor heat press.

Pro Tip to Flatten an Uneven Shirt: If your shirt has thick seams or a collar that’s preventing the heat plate from laying perfectly flat, you might get uneven color. You can fix this by sliding “risers,” such as a folded up piece of fabric, underneath the thinner sections of the shirt so the press makes full, even contact with the entire design.

setting the temperature on the vevor heat press

While the press is heating up, place your shirt on it and put a sheet of parchment paper under the layer you’re going to print. Another option is putting just the layer you’re printing on the heat press.

Note: The purpose of the parchment paper is to make sure your design doesn’t transfer to the other side of the shirt. If you don’t separate them or put parchment paper between them, the design will transfer.

showing parchment paper on top of a cricut infusible ink shirt on top of a heat press

Use a lint roller (Amazon) to remove any dust particles, pet hair, and stray fibers. If they get caught in the process, you’ll have tiny blank or dull spots since the dye will fuse to those fibers instead.

using a lint roller on a cricut infusible ink shirt on top of a heat press

Once your press is at temperature, press the shirt for 5 to 10 seconds before adding your design. This isn’t just to get it flat, it’s actually to “burp” the hidden moisture out of the fibers. If you skip this, that steam can get trapped and cause splotchy, dull colors.

Then you want to place your design on the shirt. Make sure there are no air bubbles and the edges are secure.

Tip: Fold the design in half and give a crease at the top and bottom to find the middle point. This will help align it. You can also get alignment tools such as this one to make it even easier.

Pro Tip for Saying No to Ghosts!: Even if you think your design is sticky enough to stay put, I always recommend using a few pieces of heat resistant tape (do as I say here, not as I do!). When you lift the handle of the press, it can create a ‘suction’ effect that shifts the paper just a tiny bit, which is how you end up with a duplicate “ghost” image.

folding the weeded infusible ink in half
placing the weeded sublimation paper on the cricut infusible ink shirt

Press The Sublimation Shirt

Cover your design with another piece of parchment paper.

placing parchment paper over the sublimation paper

Then start your heat press. With the one I use here, you pull down on the lever and press start to start the timer.

closing the vevor heat press and pressing the start button

When the time is up, carefully lift the handle and swing the machine away.

Then leave the design to cool. Remember, in sublimation, the cooling is what seals the ink. The heat is what turns it into a gas and then the gas turns into a solid when cooled, infusing into the shirt fibers.

finished heat pressed sublimation shirt with the heat press open and parchment paper on top

Once the shirt and infusible ink is completely cool, carefully peel off the design. This is referred to as a “cold peel” since you’re peeling the design when it’s cold.

peeling the plastic of the infusible ink off of the sublimation shirt

Remove the parchment paper from the middle and your shirt is ready to wear!

If you make your own sublimation shirts, I’d love to see them! Tag me on Instagram @ab.crafty!

Get the latest DIY tutorials, reviews, and crafting updates

You'll never be spammed and can unsubscribe at any time

holding the finished sublimation shirt on the heat press with the borgin and burkes logo

Common Sublimation Problems & Expert Solutions

Washing and Longevity: How to Keep Your Designs Pro

One of the best things about sublimation is that the design isn’t sitting on top of the fabric, it’s gassed into the fibers. This means it won’t crack or peel like vinyl, but you’ll still want to follow these rules to keep the colors as vibrant as the day you pressed them.

  • Don’t rush to the laundry room: Wait at least 24 hours before the first wash. This gives the “bond” time to fully stabilize.

  • Turn it inside out: This is the golden rule for any custom apparel. It protects the design from rubbing against other clothes or the agitator in your machine.

  • Keep it cool: Wash in cold or lukewarm water. While the design is permanent, high heat during the wash cycle can slowly dull the polyester fibers over time.

  • Avoid the “forbidden” chemicals: Don’t use bleach or heavy fabric softeners. These can break down the polyester’s ability to hold the ink.

  • Tumble dry low: If you can, hang the shirt to dry. If you must use a dryer, use the lowest heat setting possible. High heat in the dryer is the #1 enemy of shirt longevity.

Frequently Asked Questions

What shirt is best for sublimation?

For the most vibrant results, a 100% white polyester shirt is always the best choice. If you want a softer feel or a “vintage” look, you can use a poly-blend, but I don’t recommend going lower than 70% polyester. Anything less and you’ll notice the colors look significantly duller after the first wash.

Is sublimation or vinyl better for shirts?

It depends on the “feel” you want. Sublimation is better for longevity because the ink is gassed directly into the fibers – it’ll never crack or peel. Vinyl (HTV) sits on top of the fabric, which is great for 100% cotton or dark-colored shirts where sublimation won’t work, but it can eventually lift or crack over time.

Why is my sublimation shirt dull?

Dullness is usually caused by one of four things: a low polyester count in your fabric, hidden moisture in the shirt (always do a pre-press!), not using the correct temperature or time, or trying to sublimate on a colored shirt. Remember, sublimation ink is transparent, so the color of the shirt will act like a filter over your design.

How long do sublimation shirts last?

If you’ve used a shirt with at least 70% polyester, the design will technically outlast the shirt itself. Since the ink is part of the fabric, it won’t fade like a screen print or peel like vinyl. To keep it looking brand new, always wash your shirts inside out in cold water.

What cannot be sublimated?

You can’t sublimate on 100% cotton, dark-colored fabrics, or any item that doesn’t have a polyester coating. If there’s no “plastic” for the ink to bond to, the design is just gonna wash right out. This includes things such as regular ceramic mugs or glass that hasn’t been specifically treated for sublimation.

How does sublimation work?

In chemistry, sublimation is the process of moving directly from a solid to a gas or vice versa. A well known example is dry ice – the dry ice at room temperature changes from a solid block to a gas, giving a fun spooky feel to Halloween time!

In the crafting and textile world, sublimation refers to using sublimation ink or sublimation paper to dye material. The ink starts in a solid form and then through heat, turns into a gas. As the gas cools, it settles into the fibers of the fabric, dyeing it. In order to ensure the design is clear, you use a heat press to apply pressure, keeping the design intact.

What are the benefits of making sublimation shirts?

Sublimation shirts create vibrant and detailed designs that don’t feel like anything is there. They also won’t peel away or crack like sometimes can happen with vinyl or other materials. Because it’s resistant to water, it also will not fade as quickly as other materials. It’s a great way to make unique and custom shirts without the hassle of traditional screen printing. 

What's the difference between sublimation shirts and screen printing a shirt?

The main difference between sublimation shirts and screen printing a shirt is the process. With sublimation, you’re using sublimation ink to dye the material. You can cut your design from infusible ink transfer sheets, print a design from the computer using a sublimation printer, or even draw your own design with sublimation ink pens. This design is then pressed into the fibers using heat and pressure. Once it cools, the shirt is ready to wear.

Screen printing, on the other hand, is a more invasive process that uses a screen with the design on it. Then paint or ink is applied manually over the screen to dye or paint the shirt. Depending on the material used, you may feel the design on the shirt after screen printing.

What's the difference between sublimation shirts and heat transfer vinyl shirts?

The main difference between sublimation shirts and heat transfer vinyl (HTV) shirts is you can feel HTV on the shirt, but you can’t feel the design from the sublimation shirt. Additionally, HTV can come in all sorts of patterns and designs such as glitter, puffy, holographic, glow in the dark, color changing, etc. Whereas sublimation shirts are limited to colors without any affects.

Furthermore, sublimation shirts won’t fade or crack like HTV can.

More Fashion and Customization Crafts to Try

Get the latest DIY tutorials, reviews, and crafting updates

You'll never be spammed and can unsubscribe at any time

Picture of Daniela Kretchmer

Daniela Kretchmer

Daniela is a lifelong crafter who loves to share her passion for crafting. Through classes or learning on her own, she likes to say she'll do pretty much any craft aside from scrapbooking. Her current personal obsessions include garden crafts, felting, and spinning yarn.

More Craft Projects and Ideas

3 thoughts on “Sublimation Shirts: The “No-Fade” Guide to Fabrics & Heat Pressing”

  1. Geralyn

    5 stars
    Thank you so much for your step-by-step on this! I’m always looking for “the new thing” to keep business running, but this seems to be something that everyone would always need!
    -Geralyn

    Reply
  2. Eva

    I’m new to Sublimation and I’m having a hard time trying to figure out the Heat Temperatures for TShirts. I’m using 100% cotton a have burned several shirts. Could someone please help me.

    Reply
    1. Daniela

      Hi, for sublimation you want to make sure you’re using polyester to get the most vibrant color.
      What settings are you using and what sublimation product are you using? Cotton can withstand higher temperatures than polyester so it’s odd to hear it’s burning.
      You want to follow the instructions for the sublimation product you’re using – for the shirt in this tutorial it was 385 F for 40 seconds.

      Reply

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *